Extra-dry is less dry, with between 12 and 20 grams of residual sugar (notice the overlap)

Sec is noticeably sweet, possessing between 17 and 35 grams

Demi-sec is good-n-sweet, with between 33 and 50 grams residual sugar

Doux, more than 50 grams per liter

Now, the fun begins. We mentioned that there is an area of overlap between brut and extra dry. This allows for the interesting phenomenom called brut americain. The canny Champenois know that although we Americans talk dry, we actually drink medium-dry. So much of what’s shipped to America has a rather heavy dosage. I am rarely seen drinking Louis Roedererís Brut Premier, because I consider it excessively sweet. Couple years ago at the Michelin one-star Patrizierhof restaurant in the Bavarian town of Wolfratshausen, I was persuaded by the sommelier to begin my meal with a glass of Louis Roederer Brut Premier. Imagine my astonishment when the wine came out of the glass blazingly dry and brilliantly flavored! I ordered a second glass. Once I returned to America, I made a point of buying a bottle, and confirmed how different what we get is to that of what the European market receives.

What are the grapes?
There are three of them, two red and one white.

Pinot Noir which generally needs no introduction to the lover of fine wine. It produces the great reds of Burgundy, along with delicious wines in such far-flung outposts as Santa Barbara, CA Germany’s Rheinpfalz, and the Willamette Valley of Oregon.

Pinot Meunier is a little farther off the beaten track: its name—meunier means ‘miller,’ and refers to the folksy notion that the white dappling of the vine-leaves looks like a capricious miller has been dusting them with flour. Not only is Pinot Meunier a sponge for soaking up terroir, but unlike the other two members of the champagne committee, this vine will produce a second crop if the the first one happens to be killed by a spring frost.

Chardonnay which is everywhere. We all know it well. What’s not obvious is, this far north, the Chardonnay produces admirable acidity, which encourages the fleshier Pinot Noir to more eloquence of expression in the blend. Also stands solidly alone here in the blanc de blancs.

What are the soils?
Predominance of chalk, chalk, and more chalk, richly laced with minerals and fossils left behind by a prehistoric sea which covered the area some 65million years ago.

Champagne is as full of holes as an Emmenthaler cheese. These are les crayères, chalk caves dug by the Romans when they were building the city of Reims in the third century.

Wine has been grown in Champagne since the first century AD—the Romans kept spreading the word of the vine even at their farthest points of dispersion. The first century imperial edict that all vines in France were to be pulled out doesn’t seem to have been too rigorously enforced.

What’s the weather like in Champagne?
Nasty, horrible, foul, obnoxious—but not too terribly cold. No lack of blessing there, for Champagne’s about as far north as Quebec.

What are the basic types of champagne?

Non-vintage (or for the truly snooty, multi-vintage.) This is the most important steed in the stable of a champagne house, for it is the wine that determines the house style, the expression for which this or that company is noted. It’s a blended wine, one made from a variety of vineyard sites, and at least a couple of different vintages. By law it must be aged in bottle for fifteen months before leaving the house, although better houses leave it in the basement longer before embarking it.
Highlights from the current NV collection:

NV Billecart-Salmon “Réserve” Brut $45.99
“More bass than treble. Full-bodied and voluminous, this delivers subtle, complex shadings of whole-grain bread, coconut and candied fruit, finishing with a distinctive rhubarb preserve aftertaste. It's rich and balanced on the soft side.” —WS 91

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé $79.99
“Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose (Lot #L85547401905M) is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose’s captivating style.” —WA 94

NV Bollinger “Spécial Cuvée” (Net) $49.97
—WS 93

NV Devaux “Grande Réserve” Brut (Net) $31.97

NV Christian Etienne “Tradition” Champagne Brut $29.99
This tremendous value in grower Champagne is 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. On the nose it is quite aromatic and effusive. Moist yellow cake aromas mingle with crushed stone and almond paste, plus hints of chalk and white flowers. On the palate creamy green apple and chalk notes are framed by hints of lemon zest and just a touch of nut. The finish shows good length and overall the wine displays impressive delicacy and elegance, especially for the price.

NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut (Net) $25.97
“Pale color. Pristine aromas of lemon rind, toast and nut oils. Frothy, creamy and ripe in the middle; strong and concentrated but not at all heavy. Lovely toasty complexity. Firm and youthful, yet it softened quickly in the glass. This boasts impressive material and Burgundian complexity, and really clings to the palate on the aftertaste.” —IWC 90

NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Rosé (Net)$36.97
“A distinctive ros‚ Champagne that smells like potpourri or Christmas punch with its cinnamon and clove accents. There's depth and intensity to the berry and whole-grain bread notes, matched to a raw silk texture and vibrant structure. Excellent length.” —WS 92

NV Charles Heidsieck “Réserve” Brut $33.99
“Plenty of graphite and honey flavors mark this well-structured, effusive Champagne. Lemon, dough and vanilla accents are also present. Finishes with a tactile sensation around the gums.” —WS 92

NV Krug “Grand Cuvée” (Net) $134.97
“A firm, dense, dry Champagne with complex flavors of ginger, spice, coconut and dried citrus wrapped up tight. Hangs together seamlessly, despite a youthful freshness and reticence on the finish. Needs time.” —WA 93

NV Laurent-Perrier Brut $39.97

NV Mumms “Cordon Rouge” Brut (Net) $29.97
“Pure, delicate aromas of lime, mint and biscuits. Bright but round, with brisk flavors of apple, lemon and minerals enlivened by fresh acidity. In a fairly dry, light style. Finishes with subtle fruitiness and very good persistence.” —IWC 88

NV Mumms Extra Dry (Net) $26.97

NV Perrier-Jouët “Grand” Brut (Net) $32.97
“Shows finesse, along with depth to its honey, candied citrus and mineral flavors. Lovely balance and harmony render it seamless and graceful. Drink now.” —WS 91

NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut (Net) $29.97
“Lacy and graceful, this Champagne builds in intensity as its firm structure and viscous texture frame the honey, mineral and candied berry notes.” —WS 89

NV Pol Roger “Réserve” Brut (Net) $30.97
“A particulary good value.” —WA 90

NV Louis Roederer Brut Premier (Net) $37.97
“Delicious. Smooth and complex, revealing flavors of yeast, berry, ginger and citrus, allied to a firm structure. Ends with a firm, tactile sensation and an aftertaste of candied citrus.” —WS 90

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs $59.99
“Rich and ripe, this bubbly has a superfine mousse, buoying its candied citrus, ginger and herb notes. Balanced and bright, with a mouthwatering finish.” —WS 90

NV Taittinger “La Française” Brut (Net) $36.97
“Pale yellow, with an energetic mousse. High-pitched floral and apple aromas are fresh and bright, accented by a refreshing note of mint. Yeasty and toasty in the mouth but ultimately a more delicate style, with fresh, sweet citrus and peach flavors. Finishes on a note of fresh bread, with a bit more weight than recent releases of this Cuvée.” —WC 88

NV Jean Velut “Tradition” Champagne Brut $32.97
This brassy value grower Champagne begins with expressive notes of crushed Golden Delicious apple which are supported by marzipan tones and hints of seaweed and sandalwood. On the palate the wine is bold and zesty, displaying fresh lemon and lemon peel notes interwoven with chalk and apple tones. It finishes with a refreshing burst of racy minerality. Drink this with oysters or sushi, or try it with iced vanilla layer cake for dessert.

NV Jean Velut Champagne Brut Rosé $34.97
This fruit-laden value rosé opens with a distinctive and engaging nose. Pure black cherry scents are joined by notes of iron and hints of fresh herbs. On the full and vinous palate there is more black cherry and iron, plus bread dough and creamy minerals. The finish shows good length and lingering cherry notes. This is an excellent bottle of Champagne for the drinker who wants a bit more heft and power without sacrificing elegance.

NV Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec (Net) $42.97
“Like a sweeter version of a good Blanc de Blancs, with graphite, honey and lemon notes that mix with the richness and lively acidity.” —WS 88

NV Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” (Net) $36.97
This classic Champagne opens with a nose of crushed apples and orange peel backed by just a hint of doughy cake and stone. On the palate it is medium weight and eminently drinkable. Orange laced yellow cake and almond plus lemon zest and hard apple notes glide into the smooth and elegant finish.

NV Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” 1.5L (Net) $84.97
This classic Champagne opens with a nose of crushed apples and orange peel backed by just a hint of doughy cake and stone. On the palate it is medium weight and eminently drinkable. Orange laced yellow cake and almond plus lemon zest and hard apple notes glide into the smooth and elegant finish.

NV Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label” 375ml (Net) $17.27

Blanc de blancs is made solely from white grapes, in the case of Champagne Chardonnay. These wines do not often exhibit the robust fruit of the Pinot Noir-based wines, but often achieve a memorable elegance.

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs $59.99
“Rich and ripe, this bubbly has a superfine mousse, buoying its candied citrus, ginger and herb notes. Balanced and bright, with a mouthwatering finish.” —WS 90

NV Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec (Net) $42.97
“Like a sweeter version of a good Blanc de Blancs, with graphite, honey and lemon notes that mix with the richness and lively acidity.” —WS 88

’98 Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs $149.99

’99 Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $74.47

’95 Charles Heidsieck “Millénaires” Blanc de Blancs $115.97
“Classy and graceful. Glides across the palate with its fine mousse, creamy texture and tightly knit flavors of coffee, candied berry, honey and hazelnut. Harmonious, lingering with a long, butterscotch aftertaste.” —WS 95

Blanc de noirs is made entirely from black grapes. And as we remember, the juice of red wine grapes is white and without contact with the dark skins it stays white. These wines are comparatively rare, most notable is Bollinger's Vieilles Vignes Française, made from fabulously old ungrafted vines in Bouzy.

Rosé is the French word for the color pink. The juice of red wine grapes is white. What gets the red in the red wine is contact between the grape juice and the grape skins during fermentation. What gets the pink in rosé wine is limited skin contact. Most rosé champagnes, however, are made by blending a bit of red wine (always from Champagne and often from villages like Bouzy and Ambonnay) with the champagne.

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé $79.99
“Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose (Lot #L85547401905M) is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose’s captivating style.” —WA 94

NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Rosé (Net) $32.97
“A distinctive ros‚ Champagne that smells like potpourri or Christmas punch with its cinnamon and clove accents. There's depth and intensity to the berry and whole-grain bread notes, matched to a raw silk texture and vibrant structure. Excellent length.” —WS 92

NV Gosset “Grand” Rosé $54.97
“This reliable Champagne house produces a good non-vintage Rose Brut, and this moderately pink-tinged example reveals aromas and flavors of sweet strawberries, bread dough, red currants, and a hint of lavender. Vibrant and youthful, it should drink well for 4-5 years.” —WA 90

NV Jean Velut Champagne Brut Rosé $34.97
This fruit-laden value rosé opens with a distinctive and engaging nose. Pure black cherry scents are joined by notes of iron and hints of fresh herbs. On the full and vinous palate there is more black cherry and iron, plus bread dough and creamy minerals. The finish shows good length and lingering cherry notes. This is an excellent bottle of Champagne for the drinker who wants a bit more heft and power without sacrificing elegance.

Tête de Cuvée is the general term for a champagne house’s luxury blend. Tête is the French word for head. Cuvée is a useful word which in this case means ‘batch.’ or ‘blend.’ For Veuve Clicquot it’s La Grande Dame, for Moët & Chandon it’s Dom Perignon, for Louis Roederer it’s “Cristal,” and Pol Roger call theirs “Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.” Tête de Cuvées are often vintage dated as in the above examples, but can also be non-vintage cuvées.

’89 Charles Lafitte “Orgueil” $69.99
“Rich and ripe, displaying tropical fruit, coffee, honey and citrus aromas and flavors. The texture is airy and open, yet there's a firm structure that emerges on the finish. Opulent, if a little coarse in the end.” —WS 91

’98 Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” $129.99

’98 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame” (Net) $119.97

RD is a Spécialty of the Bollinger house, although it’s been observed at other addresses. Means récement degorgée, or recently disgorged—the champagne has spent an extra long time on the lees before being finished and sent out to the market. A jeroboam of 1970 Bollinger RD drunk at Christmastime 1992 had been disgorged about eight months earlier, and was razor sharp and crisp, with voluptuous Pinot Noir fruit in between the toast and the finish.

’96 Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut $194.97
The Champagne of James Bond, R.D. is a Champagne of great power, complexity and age-worthiness. This R.D., which stands for recently disgorged, is one of the last releases of the great 1996 vintage and is likely to surpass the stunning 1990. “Dramatic aromas of ripe peach, pear, mango, musky yellow plum, fig, buttery brioche, toasted nuts and baking spices. Rich, deep and expansive on the palate, with powerful, deeply concentrated flavors of yellow peach, tropical fruit, toasted nuts, sweet butter, toffee and marzipan utterly filling the mouth. An endless parade of toasty, decadent fresh and dried fruits defines the finish, with a gentle but insistent mineral undertone providing focus, freshness and lift. This is a must buy for Bollinger fans.” —IWC 95

Vintage champagne can age extremely well. And exhibit loads of vintage characteristic. For example, my favorite is 1979, where the wines were comparatively high in acid, and which showed an elegance and intensity that’s pretty unrivalled. My best friend’s favorite is 1982, where the champagnes were very fat, rich and succulent. The oldest champagne I’ve had was the 1928 Louis Roederer, which had plenty of life left and lots of bubbles, even thought the fruit was showing just the slightest sign of drying out. An imperial pint bottle of 1955 Moët & Chandon (consumed in ‘92) had lost its bubble, but retained plenty of flavor. In fact, the test of a fine champagne is to let just a bit remain in the glass at the end of the evening, cover it with a slice of paper, try it in the morning. The wine should still taste good and well balanced. Warm without the bubbles.

’98 Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs $164.99

’99 Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs (Net) $74.47

Sold Out - On Re-order
’99 Charles Ellner Brut “Séduction” (Net) $79.99
“This shows refinement. The mousse is supple and the structure bright, providing the stage for roasted almond, mushroom and toast flavors. Has fine length, with a chalklike sensation on the finish. Drink now through 2015.” —WS 92

’95 Charles Heidsieck “Millénaires” Blanc de Blancs $77.99
“Classy and graceful. Glides across the palate with its fine mousse, creamy texture and tightly knit flavors of coffee, candied berry, honey and hazelnut. Harmonious, lingering with a long, butterscotch aftertaste.” —WS 95

’85 Krug “Collection” (Net) $596.97
This golden pale gem is the epitome of decadent elegance and showing at its zenith now. Delicate scents of citrusy pear and rich, toasty brioche notes interplay beautifully with elaborate mineral undertones. The palate is powerful and broad yet offers seamless finesse, highlighted by expansive layers of honeyed minerality, dried pear nuances, white truffle and delicate earthy tones. The finish is incredibly layered and long. This wine is a shimmering Champagne experience.

’81 Krug “Collection” 1.5L (Net) $1,399.97

’89 Charles Lafitte “Orgueil” $69.99
“Rich and ripe, displaying tropical fruit, coffee, honey and citrus aromas and flavors. The texture is airy and open, yet there's a firm structure that emerges on the finish. Opulent, if a little coarse in the end.” —WS 91

Wonderfully aromatic with hints of lemon cream and mint on the nose and bright acidity, excellent minerality, and intense vanilla and citrus notes on the mid-palate, this lush Tête de Cuvée is equal parts vibrant and luxurious, a scintillating classic with just a hint of yeast on the finish!

’00 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé $61.99
One of our best values in fine rosé.

’98 Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” $129.99

’98 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame” (Net) $119.97

What is Grower Champagne and the meaning of the very small print on the label?

Grower Champagne is Champagne which is grown and made by growers themselves, rather than produced by a large house, which typically sources its grapes from multiple growers. Grower Champagnes tend to be small production and distinctive in style, reflecting the character of the grower. Their wines also tend to be more variable and show more personality from year to year than the big houses. This is because Grower Champagnes typically do not have multiple grape sources to draw from to create as consistant a blend, year to year.

NM means that the brand is a négociant/manipulant, who has purchased at least some of the grapes, then made the wine. These include major Champagne houses such as Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, and Piper-Heidsieck.

RM means that the brand is récoltant/manipulant, who has grown all of the grapes themselves before making the wine. These wines are typically termed "Grower Champagnes."

RC means récoltant coopérateur, and refers to growers that make an sell their wines with the aid of grower’s cooperatives. These wines are also typically termed "Grower Champagnes."

CM is cooperative-manipulant, a crew of growers who bottle their own product together, although these wines can include purchased grapes.

MA is marque d’acheteur, what the British call 'buyer’s own brand' champagnes.

Cava: good solid fizzy stuff made from perelada, xarello and such in the Penedès region of Spain.

’03 Marqués de Gelida Cava Brut (Net) $10.97
“Perhaps the best sparkling wine value in the marketplace... A delicious estate-bottled sparkling cava with tiny pinpoint bubbles as well as crisp, yeasty brioche, apple skin, and white peach-like characteristics.” —WA 90

Blanquette de Limoux: Southern French, and the first famous sparkling wine. Made from Chardonnay and a local grape called the Mauzac

NV Jean Louis Denois Limoux Brut Blanc de Blancs $14.99
The nose of this elegantly packaged and highly drinkable 100% Chardonnay value opens with zesty fresh lemon notes which mingle with light toast and powdered stone scents. In the mouth is it medium weight and shows good persistence. Green apple flavors are backed by lemon tones and which glide gracefully onto the supple finish. This will show great at cocktail parties and festive gatherings—and some of your guests may not even realize it‘s not Champagne.

Vin Mousseux de Vouvray: made from chenin blanc, and just one notch less serious than Champagne quite often real yummy.

Saumur: also Loire valley chenin

Crémant d’Alsace: is made by the méthode champenoise from mostly the grape-varietals for which Alsace is famous, although they do have a bit of Chardonnay planted for the purpose of making fizz. An Alsace crémant does not have the lower pressure of a crémant from Champagne.

Sekt: Germany’s delicious sparkling wine, made either from Riesling (frequently from the Mittelrhein) or from inexpensive Italian white brought in from the South. Pinot blanc and Chardonnay are also used by growers.

California: many champagne houses possess satellites in the Golden State—Taittinger, Roederer, Mumm, Piper, Moët & Chandon. The better ones are very nice.

NV Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley $16.77
“Smooth, rich and creamy, with spicy pear, fig, melon and honeysuckle flavors that are fresh and lively, ending with a tasty burst of ripe fruit.” —WS 88

NV Schramsberg “Mirabelle” Brut Rosé $22.99
“A rosé with serious intentions, this has a delicate pink hue and floral strawberry and spicy yeast roll aromas. The flavors show good focus, offering raspberry, Gala apple, ginger and fig flavors.” —WS 93

Italy

Prosecco: absolultely gulpable sparkling wine from Italia. Made by the Charmat process, fermented in closed tank.
Below are some sparkling examples of the next best thing from around the world:

NV Mionetto Valdobbiadene D.O.C. Prosecco (Net) $14.97
This Prosecco is one the finest available in the US; it comes in a stylish bottle and is drinking beautifully right now. The staff tasted this Valdobbiadene in the early spring and we fell in love with it. Since then we've introduced it to hundreds of our customers. Made from 100% Prosecco, it has a pale straw color and tiny bubbles. Ample pear, yellow apple and a slight touch of ripe melon and apple blossom grace the nose. The fresh vibrant fruit on the palate is tempered by a creamy, nutty quality. The finish is crisp and bone dry. An ideal match with melon and prosciutto, shrimp or sea scallops sautâed in butter, swordfish carpaccio and yes, it is also ideal to serve at wedding receptions.

NV Mionetto “Sergio” Prosecco (Net) $14.97

NV Zardetto Brut Prosecco (Net) $10.97
“One of the finest of a bevy of light-bodied, crisp, tasty Proseccos in the marketplace, this blend of 95% Prosecco and 5% Chardonnay is frothy, fresh, and savory.” —WA 88

NV Zardetto Brut Prosecco (Net) $10.97
“One of the finest of a bevy of light-bodied, crisp, tasty Proseccos in the marketplace, this blend of 95% Prosecco and 5% Chardonnay is frothy, fresh, and savory.” —WA 88

’03 Marqués de Gelida Cava Brut (Net) $11.97
“Perhaps the best sparkling wine value in the marketplace... A delicious estate-bottled sparkling cava with tiny pinpoint bubbles as well as crisp, yeasty brioche, apple skin, and white peach-like characteristics.” —WA 90

NV Juve y Camps Cava Brut Rosé $14.99
“My favorite... is the non-vintage Brut Rose. Dark pink in color with a lovely nose of rose petals and strawberries, it is lively and fresh on the palate, with crisp acidity and a long finish. This excellent value can be served with a variety of savory courses and as an aperitif.” —WA 90

USA:

California

’02 Domaine Carneros by Taittinger Brut $17.97
“Appealing aromas of Gala apple, toasted almond and vanilla lead to focused, creamy Asian pear and spice flavors that finish with a vibrant crispness.” —WS 89

NV Gloria Ferrer Brut Sonoma $11.97
“An exceptional value. Round and full-bodied, with rich, ripe apple, pear and honeydew melon flavors. This complex sparkler has a nice touch of yeast and doughy aromas that give it added character, turning creamy with a touch of vanilla.” —WS 90

NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut $16.77
“Nonvintage Roederer Estate brut, from Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, Calif., is America‘s top low-cost sparkling wine. This supple blend of chardonnay and pinot noir enchants Francophiles.” —NYT

New Mexico

NV Gruet New Mexico Brut Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Blend (Net) $12.47
This is one of the best under 15 dollar sparklers we offer, and the high quality/low price combo make it an ideal party pick. The nose delivers abundant ripe apple tones that are backed by hints of toast, sea air and spiced minerals. The palate shows very good focus and crisp acidity, with notes of hard apple and lemon plus a backing of seashell tones. Perfect with just about any canapé you can think of.

Food matches with champagne?
We recommend champagne as an excellent enhancement to fine dining—not just at the outset, but all through your meal.

As far as Chinese carryout goes, champagne is the next best thing to beer.

A #1 on the guilty-pleasure list is a non-vintage rosé champagne with Peking Duck.

To continue with the pink stuff, a vintage rosé served alongside seared salmon with cracked black peppercorns is a very impressive dish.

A personal favorite for starting off a long meal is a bottle of vintage blanc de blancs with a manchego & spring-onion quesadilla.

Blanc de blancs goes quite handsomely alongside an Alsace onion tart.

Another favorite for blanc de blancs is a Persian dish called kashk budemjan—eggplant with a sheeps-milk whey concoction.

Ceviche of bay scallops with soy and cilantro is a fine companion to a masculine Pinot Noir-based champagne like Bollinger or Veuve Clicquot.